August 1^st, 2001

In the morning we leave Dawson City and the Yukon behind and head westward towards Alaska. The road we are on is called the Top-of-the-world highway and indeed offers spectacular views all around.

It's actually just a gravel road we are on and beside the Alaska highway is the only connection between Canada and Alaska, but only in summer ;-)) From time to time we have to stop because of road constructions. Our van climbs higher and higher, remains of last year's snow fill the ditch.

About 120 km we drive until we reach Poker Creek, which has an official population of 2 people (two officers who probably have been transferred for disciplinary reasons). Unfortunately we haven't got our flight tickets in Dawson City so we can only hope to cross the border without any problems. We are lucky and the officer is actually really friendly. Soon later we stop a gas station and have to face the prices in US$, which are not very good for us except for the gas ;-))

After the border the highway runs down into the valley, through very small settlements ;-))

Every kilometer it seems there is a historic site showing something Europeans would only describe as industrial waste, but is somehow related to the gold rush in former times. Rushing along the Taylor highway (which is closed according to our map) we come to Tok where we head towards Glennallen on the Tok cut off.

The landscape changes into what we are going to see the next month: never-ending woods and highways ;-))

Shortly behind Glennallen we are tired of driving and pitch our tents on a nice state campground. As we open the doors we hear what we thought to be over: millions of mosquitoes. Really a lot! Just to imagine: if you wear something dark you can be sure to have about 100 mosquitoes on your back within 5 minutes, all of them trying to bite you. DEET suddenly is our best friend again ;-))

In the evening we have some delicious food: potato pancakes with apple sauce and a fresh baked apple pie for desert ;-))

August 2^nd, 2001

In the morning we leave early towards Anchorage. During the first 10 minutes we have to kill all the mosquitoes that enter the van yesterday, quite a hunt....

Closer and closer we get to the mountains and even more fantastic the view gets.

On our way we stop shortly at the Manatuska glacier to have our lunch break.

Before we reach Anchorage we go for a swim in a nearby lake, then we enter the city. We so some e-mails, groceries, shop at the REI. In the evening we park the van at the foot of Flattop mountain.

We pack our stuff and hike uphill. During the 45 minutes we need to reach the top the sun sets above Anchorage.

Up here it is windy and cold. Simon, Sabine and I can't resist the temptation (no bugs, no bears) and jus take our bivy bags while Daniel takes the tent. We use the rock walls that others build here before us to hide from the wind.

August 3^rd, 2001

When we get up this morning we can't see Anchorage anymore. Instead a thick layer of clouds block the sight.

We have a quick breakfast and start to hike back.

After 30 minutes we get to the van and drive into Anchorage to have a second, bigger breakfast at the Hoggs Brothers restaurant. The weather gets worse again, and as we leave the city towards Seward it starts drizzling.

The weather damps our mood but we have fun visiting an exhibition in Portage about the glacier of the same name. Later that afternoon we set up our camp on the black bear campground and erect the famous Busch tower ;-))

August 4^th, 2001

It rains the whole night and in the morning we pack our wet tents. In the afternoon we reach Seward. It is still overcast but the rain at least stopped.

Sabine, Daniel and I visit the Artic Sea Life Center while Simon takes a walk through town. After a hot chocolate in a small café we drive back some kilometers and then take a turn to the Exit glacier. Even from far the bluish white of the ice is in great contrast to the green woods all around.

As we get onto the parking lot it is quite busy for Alaskan circumstances. Along a short path we get to the ice which is amazing by its dimensions.

A gabby but sympathetic (summer job) ranger explains some details about the glacier and asks us where we plan to stay for the night. Rather joking he tell us about this hike along the edge of the ice which leads up to the Harding icefield. But we are excited and pack our gear right away, get a permit and a bear box. In the late afternoon we start onto that trail and fantastic views is what we get.

During our hike we meet some animals as well, some rather small, some others rather big (but a bit further away ;-))

We stop from time to time in order to enjoy the sights on the ice which slowly flows into the valley.

As we climb on the sky opens up and the sun shines down on us.

Finally the trails leads across wide snow fields. Shortly before the end of the path we pitch the tents in a ditch a bit off the trail.

For supper we have a hot soup and a wonderful sunset.

This evening we hit the sac early, first because we are tired, second because we plan to get up early tomorrow.

August 5^th, 2001

As I force myself out of my cosy sleeping bag this morning the sun is about to rise above the Harding ice field. Clouds start to form above the cold ice and we hurry to get to the end of the trail.

On the top we have a astonishing view, we are overwhelmed by the dimensions.

As we have seen enough we head back, downwards. We were lucky to se the morning sun without clouds, but even the earliest hikers won't see that anymore. They look at us in dismay, they might think they are the first people up here on this wonderful day ;-))

After 90 minutes we are back at the van and drive back to Anchorage. This tour to the Harding ice field was a last highlight for Daniel who has to take his flight back to Germany tonight. On the way back we stop again in Portage and get back to Anchorage in the evening. We drop off Daniel at the airport and pick up my brother Peter instead, who is going to join us until end of September. We enjoy a short evening as we are all pretty tired. The first outdoor thing to do for Peter is to drive to the foot of Flattop mountain and sleep in the bivy bag. This night we all dream of the tours that are still to come ;-))