August 28^th, 2001

After our tents are packed we leave the Wolf Creek campground and head into Whitehorse for some groceries, e-mails and phone calls. Today almost only driving is planned, we head south towards Watson Lake.

Peter wants to see the sign collection as well and shortly later we go on southwards where we enter British Columbia. In the evening we stop at a rather quiet campground with the much promising name "Moose Meadows". As we get there dusk has begun already and so we have to take our supper (delicious pitas with minced meat and lettuce) in the beams of our headlamps. With the sun set the temperature drops and we hit the sleeping bags pretty early.

August 29^th, 2001

As we get up around 6am the next morning a thick layer of fog covers the lake nearby our camp. Behind a mountain ridge the sun rises and illuminates the unreal scene.

It is cold (around 1 °C), but it promises to be a nice day. Unfortunately the weather doesn't remain like this and as we exit the highway for a little detour to Stewart it is overcast again. But we see some great glaciers along the way. Within 65 km one can see up to 26 glaciers, but only some of them are worth stopping.

In Stewart we have our lunch (freshly smoked salmon ;-)) and go on for another 2 km to get to Hyder, Alaska. Simon doesn't believe in that there might be border controls and so we rush into the tiny town which consists of only souvenir selling shops. Two minutes later we are on our way back as an officer just jumps onto the street and stops us. He asks for our passports and suddenly there is a little panic in the van - the passports are buried somewhere ;-)) But everything turns out fine and in the evening we set our camp on the rather infamous Seeleg campground.

August 30^th, 2001

In the morning we get started without breakfast in order to get that in a Tim Horton's in Smithers. Later that day (a lot of boring drive later) we get to Prince George where we fetch some letters and drop some as well. Then public library is the best place to go for checking e-mails and later in the evening we visit a bookstore where we sit and read while drinking hot chocolate ;-)) The night we spent on the Lazy Bee campground about 15 km outside Prince George.

August 31^st, 2001

After a short breakfast we head back to town where we bring the van for an oil change and get tons of food (> $200)for the next trip. Later we follow the highway southbound to exit it for a road that takes us 100 km eastwards to the Bowron Lakes. The campground of the Bowron Lakes Provincial Park is our aim for today and there we spent the evening packing our stuff for the following 8 day canoe trip.

September 1^st, 2001

Today we get up early and get paddles and life jackets from a nearby outfitter. Back at the reception center of the park we have a group registration and a demonstration video (how nice :-((. I bring the van back to the outfitter (where it's going to stand for the next days) and get a lift back with our canoes. Sabine, Simon and Peter already have registered our stuff (only 27 kg are allowed IN the canoe while portaging) and so we can load the boats and  get on the first portage (2.4 km) to Kibbee Lake. At the end or the portage we are pretty sweaty already. Maybe we have planned for a little bit too much food, but about 100 kg of food for 8 days (and some big eaters ;-)) should be all right ;-))

We paddle on cheerfully, even if the weather can't really decide on being overcast or rather sunny. The rather tiny Kibbee Lake (2.4 km) is done quickly and only minutes later we are on the next portage (2.0 km) towards the Indianpoint Lake.

Until the first campground (#1) it is sunny, but suddenly dark clouds and wind build up. Although it is only 1pm we decide to stop at the next campground (#4). While we are still on the water it starts raining heavy drops and minutes later it is just pouring down. But quickly the tents and a rain tarp are pitched. After our stuff is taken care of we sit around the sparking camp fire.

But the bad weather is gone as quick as it came and so later we sit in the evenings sun and enjoy doing nothing. It's not cold but the surrounding mountains got a layer of new snow, winter isn't far anymore. In total length the Bowron Lakes are 116 km, the record is at 12 hours 27 minutes ;-)). We actually plan for at least 6 days, time enough to relax and enjoy paddling. Until the evening we write letters, talk and try to fish, but no luck with the fish today.

September 2^nd, 2001

As we wake up warm sunlight greets us. After a  splendid breakfast we load the canoes again and paddle to the next portage.

After 1.5 km we get to Isaac Lake, of which we paddle down the western leg. On a sun-drenched sandbank we stop for lunch.

As we paddle on we get to the main leg of Isaac Lake at which we pick a campsite (#17) shortly later (around 2pm). It's at a little bay, which lures us with crystal clear water. We unload the canoes, erect the tents and go for a refreshing swim. The remaining afternoon we spend laying in the sun, being lazy. In the evening we sit around the warming camp fire and try to kill some of our food supplies.

September 3^rd, 2001

Around 9am we get up and get going again. Today we have to cover the remaining 30 km of Isaac Lake, unfortunately the weather - in contrast to yesterday - is rather undecided. Dark clouds and sunshine shake hands from time to time.

Around noon we stop at campground #21, but only for lunch. After we are done and have invited some other paddlers for freshly baked apple pie we get into the canoes again and reach the end of the lake in the afternoon.

Unfortunately we are a bit late today so both campgrounds (#28 and 29) are completely occupied. Lamenting doesn't help and so we have to portage the canoes another time today. But first Peter an I conquer the "Chute" and the "Roller Coaster", two white water sections which are navigable and bring a lot of fun. After 2.8 km we finally get to campsite #30 at McLeary Lake.

Dusk has begun as we pitch our tents and shortly later it is pitch-dark. But around the fire we enjoy the evening, at least for a little while until we disappear in the tents,

September 4^th, 2001

Today we get up early, around 6:30am the alarm rings. In front of us lies the McLeary Lake which flows into the Caribou River. Here is supposed to be a good place to spot big animals, moose for example. As we get onto the calm waters a thick layer of fog covers the lake, it's almost scarily quiet.

The river turns out to silt-laden, meaning milky and grey. Furthermore tons of driftwood and a rather strong current make it place where one has to pay attention to where to paddle. So this section is over quickly without any moose showing up. Only some otters hit the water as we approach them. Some minutes later we are on Lake Lanezi and stop at campsite #37 to enjoy the panoramic view from a standard BC parks shitter box ;-)) We paddle on and make it to campsite #34 where we have breakfast in one of the shelters along the chain of lakes. Until lunch we head on to campground #37.  In the afternoon we cross Sandy Lake and get back onto Caribou River. Late again, the campsites here are already occupied and we have to go on to Unna Lake. On the Caribou another group of paddlers comes towards us looking for the same campsite as we are, but obviously in the wrong place ;-)) Half an hour later we enter Unna Lake, a very beautiful place to be. At the sun-dipped shore we set our camp for the night.

Peter and I get into the canoes once more and cross the lake to get to a little trail which leads to the Caribou Falls. The falls are 24 meters high and the water rushes into the valley with a roaring sound.

As we get back to the camp it is late Afternoon and so we hang around and relax, before we have to prepare supper. The lake is completely calm and smooth now, the summits of the surrounding mountains are reflected in it. In the last rays of sunshine we enjoy supper and then sit around the fire and have a hot chocolate for dessert.

September 5^th, 2001

In the morning there is fog all over the place again which lightens up only slowly.

On the beach just in front of the tents we see some fresh tracks of a moose which we follow. Minutes later we see the cow, which isn't impressed by us to much and keeps on grazing.

We take some pictures and get back to the camp where we sit down an watch the other paddlers leave the lake while we have another hot chocolate.

Before we leave, too, I take my chances on the official BC parks restrooms. As I sit there I suddenly hear a whistling sound followed by a big bang on the restroom's roof. Then once more, and another time. Then stuff comes done at a rate of 1/s. As I get out I see who is the bastard. It's a little squirrel sending fir-cones down from the tree, 15 meters above me ;-))

In the late morning we leave the lake as well and paddle on towards Babcock Lake. We cross some small lakes which are connected by short portages.

In the afternoon we paddle down most of Swan Lake and set camp on campsite # 50. We do some fishing and reading until it's timer for supper. For dessert today there is a Jell-O cheese cake with strawberry sauce (no cooking, cheers to modern chemistry ;-)).

September 6^th, 2001

As I wake up it rains hard and raindrops drum on the tent. We have breakfast under our tarp and meantime the pouring rain changes to a drizzling rain which stops in the later morning. We pack our remaining stuff and have planned to take the right leg of Bowron River. After we hit a dead end we split up. Sabine and Simon take the left leg while Peter and I take the right. At the other end we wait for the others, after about 30 minutes we paddle upstream on the left leg where we find out that there is a third leg which isn't marked on the map! Great ! We hang around some more, hoping to see Sabine and Simon. Instead we see a huge bird of prey and - what a surprise (for all of us) - a Grizzly drinking at the bank. Within a second it is gone, disappeared in the dense bushes.

Finally we give up waiting and follow the river down to Bowron Lake. At the northern shore Bine and Simon wait with the van. Quickly our gear is packed, the canoes returned and we reported back at the park office. Then we head back to Quesnel and further on towards Williams Lake. Few kilometers before the town we stop at a campground close to the highway where we go for a hot shower first. Later that evening we have some juicy burgers and soon after a cold starry night convinces us to go to bed early.