Fish River Canyon

January 31^st, 2002

As Geraldine and I get up around 5 a.m. this morning it is still dark. From our camp it is another half an hour drive on a gravel road to the rim of the Fish River Canyon. As the sun rises in our back we experience a fantastic view: in bright colors the rim on the other side of the canyon lightens up underneath a cloudless sky.

The Canyon itself is still in the shadows which makes us agree on coming back after the breakfast with Gudi and Steffen. On the way back to the car we see a dark spot on the horizon that comes closer quick, much quicker than a car. Some seconds later we know what's going on. A little airplane passes us in 20 meters distance and low altitude and dives into the canyon - the more expensive way of viewing the canyon.

On the way back to the camp we drive right into the sun - at least it seems like that. The sun is  still close to the horizon but already burns down on us and makes the bark of the quiver trees glow golden. As we get back to the camp a surprise is waiting for us. Until now we have seen the camp only in darkness, now it has an oasis-like appearance to us. The green is soft on the eyes for us as we've seen only rocks and dry grass for days.

Together with Gudi and Steffen we have breakfast and then break our camp. Two hours later we are back at the main viewpoint and now look into the fully lighted canyon - it is just amazing.

The Fish River Canyon is the second largest canyon of the world - right after the Grand Canyon in the USA. Like now - in the dry season - the Fish River is more or  less dried out, only greenish spots on the bottom show the remaining water ponds. We drive on along the rim on a rocky track and it is worth it. Again and again we look down into the canyon and are amazed by the steepness with that the water has eroded its way into the rock - up to 549 meters deep! Initially we had planned for a hiking trip in the canyon, but in summer it is prohibited to enter it due to the high temperatures at the bottom.

From time to time we spot animals along the track - a Klipspringer, a Ground Squirrel -  and wonder, what they find here to feed on. Later in the morning we leave the canyon behind and head on. Today we want to reach Sesriem, where we have booked a campsite  for tonight. Our trip goes on on the C12 northbound and further on the B4 eastbound. As we reach Keetmanshoop we stop only shortly, get gas and fresh food. The German heritage of Keetmanshoop is actually not to be found in the architectural aspects but rather in street names. The former imperial post office is situated on 5^th avenue (the British have a part of the history of the country as well). As we have still a big distance to cover today we decide not to take the probably more interesting route on smaller roads but to head north on the B1 until shortly before Marienthal and then to take the C19 towards Maltahoehe. Still the drive will be strenuous, but again it is just worth doing it. Across the Zarishoogte Pass we get into a even more exiguous area where even bushes are rare.

On the drive towards Witwater we stop at a large Camel Thorn tree, which holds a gigantic nest. This is home for up to 300 Social Weavers that live in a unique community. The nest itself can weigh up to 6 tons and force a tree to tip over. This one here is a pretty big one already, but seems abandoned. Underneath the tree we find many fruits of the same out of which toys or wind toys are made here in Namibia. As we go on north-westwards  the landscape changes again. The golden shining grass is now interrupted by single trees, a typical view of the savannah.

Every 5 kilometers along the way we see Springboks with an astonishing regularity, which we experience another time later. Probably that has to do with their territory habits, but we are not sure about that. In the late afternoon we head for a private lodge instead of the campground. Gudi wants to sleep in a bed again and to us the offer is attractive, too, as it includes a good supper. During the 30 minute drive from the road to the actual lodge we see more Springboks. Finally we arrive a the house that is kept in African style and are impressed. Just a kilometer behind it the Namib with its high sand dunes stretches - a eye-popping view. Our bedrooms are in separate guesthouses - half tent half clay hut - but with terrific interior. After a refreshing shower we have our dinner that tastes delicious - even though we never expected a French cuisine with a Namibian touch. In the evening we sit on our roof terrace and watch the starry sky while we here   sounds of traditional Namibian music in the background. We are pretty tired after the long drive and soon later hit the bed - from where we have a view on the desert that we will explore tomorrow....